No music tonight – I did consider trying to find the mediaeval Ipswich Trump between sections. I am wearing Suffolk pink! You may also enjoy this https://elspethsnaughtyguides.wordpress.com/2026/08/14/a-day-out-with-elspeth-in-ipswich/
Welcome to Between The Stools on August 30th – a holiday weekend in England and Wales – 2026. I’ve been turning over what to share with you today, and decided to continue the theme of place, although I will offer the other matters mentioned (such as Ezekiel/aliens) in another service soon.
Although I hope to share some things of interest, with deeper significance, about Ipswich, the county town of Suffolk, England, I will make some general comments that I hope you can relate to, whether you are nearer the one in Queensland or New England.
I was encouraged to think of Ipswich as a functional town – it did the things you need it to, without joy in doing them. Ipswich was – do note the past tense – a necessity, if not necessary evil. There was a sense that your stint there would come up like a lottery, which one must endure with fortitude.
Is there a place near you like that? Perhaps it is home, perhaps it is near to home, or a place which could be home. Perhaps it’s where learning or earning is most likely to take place. Perhaps it is well placed between the differing requirements of your loved ones. Perhaps you’ve friends around…yet maybe you might wish to transport them elsewhere. Perhaps it is a place that you fear getting stuck – those projected few months or years might roll into many more, and then you believe it will be a wrench to leave, or you’ll feel too old to by then…
I am wondering whether you have resisted, escaped, embraced. Perhaps Ipswich represents the place that others expect of or try to carve out for you, or your compromising more than you’d like. And I’m wondering what we can do to change this.
One response would be to go and plant yourself doing what you love among those you love in a place which inspires and nurtures you, and not to follow the rut set out by others.
Another might be that the place you have been encouraged to despise, or worry about, is actually fulfilling for you. I met someone who said, ‘I’m one of those who really like Ipswich’. And it made me consider that there was something to like, something I’d missed.
I give you a moment to think on this place for you, and why it seems inevitable and inescapable, and what embracing would feel like, or how one might avoid being in the position of spending much energy in a place that doesn’t nourish you. And I will open in prayer to speak to all that.
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Fore St
I am writing a pair of books about British cathedrals and their cities, although I am allowing that broadly. As the diocese of Suffolk is called St Edmundsbury and Ipswich, that allows me to speak of both towns – I care not if the places I wish to speak of have actual city status. These two don’t.
Early in my travel writing, I wrote of Ipswich – was it my first piece? And I began with the line
‘familiarity breeds appreciation’.
I have used it to open each rewrite and it will appear in the book, perhaps at the front as a philosophy for all places, and more than place.
Recently, I updated the line to say: ‘familiarity breeds fascination’. I am not sure I will stick with that for Ipswich, but it did engross me for a couple of weeks as I researched its many buildings of interest and something of its history.
Let me now introduce Ipswich, and tell you about it in negative terms – through that which is not, and some concerns via patterns I’ve spotted, which will probably relate to your town too. (I am thinking of starting a new series on my sister blog.)
I have written bigger pieces about Ipswich, which don’t have bearing on a sermon – I am aiming here for deeper points about social justice and spirituality.
Ipswich has tried at least once to join the bids to become a city, which has become a fad, and the title meaningless. To me, a real city, whether large or not, has a certain dignity and features, including a cathedral. Ipswich feels city-like, with tall buildings and busy roads, but in other ways, it does not have what other places do, and I’ve been thinking on what that lack is, and why it is important to me.
Ipswich is fond of telling you that it is the first town of English people, referring to being founded in the Saxon era by the native Angles. These were not of course the first peoples here, and I wonder how meaningful this assertion is, and what it really means (in a multicultural town, I am uncomfortable).
I am not sure what real evidence is presented by Ipswichians for their premier claim, but it is asserted, somewhat unusually, at the railway station, on the most prominent platform. There is a picture of Saxon life, including of the famous nearby ship that Ipswich* wasn’t able to display in its museum, despite an employee finding the Sutton Hoo ship burial and its treasures. These are in the railings of the bus station also. So it is depicted here, so that all might know that Ipswich Is Important! *(It is actually not the burial long ship, on closer inspection, but one of the era).
I noted that it’s stated that ‘recent evidence’ has come to light to support this claim, which tells me that it is contested and needs reboosting!

The Old Cattlemarket Bus Station features Sutton Hoo
For a town keen on its early history, Saxon and Norman buildings are conspicuously absent. There is but one carving in the former era (a George and Dragon) and three items of the latter – all small and in churches. Ipswich lost its castle early – by 1173 – and there is contention as to where this wooden structure stood. If the suggestion of it being the site of the Civic Centre is true, it is significant, and I believe not accidental, to add more energies of control to the same spot. I do think that how we use ground matters, and it lingers. That 14 storey 1962 tower was abandoned in 2004 and taken down in 2008; the borough council moved into another new another bland office, this time in a huddle with other councils. Thus there was much destruction for something which lasted only 30-40 years. This is a pattern for Ipswich over the last 2 centuries – of institutions especially. I have been making a list (perhaps I’ll save it for my full piece for another time).
In 2000, Ipswich celebrated the 800th anniversary of receiving its royal charter, and for this, a series of hangings were commissioned, made by Isabel Clover, and these are now in St Peter’s church – Ipswich has twelve mediaeval ones in its centre. This is something else which Ipswich often tells you. They claim that Ipswich’s probable first church was this one, because it’s near to the ancient river crossing – so it’s circumstantial conjecture, not based on any real evidence that I’ve read.
These hangings, inside a church that isn’t open to the public often, and which has lost some of its peace due to the paraphernalia of becoming a secular arts centre, are interesting. Isabel included buildings that are – and there are some really good ones – and buildings that are no longer. It literally is a rich tapestry, and a thoughtful one. It is a good place to appreciate Ipswich’s history, since the panels about the panels are informative and not juvenile. PICTURE OF ST PETER’S FURTHER DOWN

I couldn’t be bothered to walk right up to it – even this is with a zoom lens…
Since the Ipswich Museum is shut, you won’t learn any other way. This Victorian edifice featuring a woolly mammoth closed in October 2022 for three years. And you’ve guessed right, four years on, it’s still not open yet. It is now projected to return in early 2027, but this is not the first time a new date has been given, only to give another!
Although prevalent media sources and a councillor in particular will tell you how the almost £4 million and 2+ years extra is necessary, I want to tell you what I’m hearing and thinking… that we’ve stopped our habit of going to this out of the way museum, that people loved it as it was, that we don’t appreciate the projected images of hospital chic sensory overload (more Glory in Good Omens than its Victorian glory). The town’s original museum has become one again during the gap.
This first edifice, in the titular street, is another example of something that was moved – in 33 years.
Meanwhile, the sister in the park continues, and I’d like to take you there now. Christchurch is the really good part of Ipswich. Can I think of another place with such a lovely and large central park? And this FREE mansion to explore…
I would have taken you round its rooms – from the Tudor era until the Victorian – with artwork of ruff wearers and 1930s coach outings and late Impressionists with pride, and told you that it is what I picture for Eyres in Graces in my novel. (Parallel Spirals turned 10 last month). But I was angered to learn that at this time of celebrating local painter John Constable’s 250th anniversary, bag searches are in place. I don’t think I can fit The Haywain in my shopping bag, nor do I have any intention or interest in taking it. I’m sure that any who may do will have ways round this. Jules Verne’s comments on passports (in Around The World in 80 Days) are true here: it just inconveniences the good. Without endorsing it, I do wonder if art theft is really a crime that hurts people, other than the pride of those who own it. Like too much else, it is a commercial offence.
They won’t let me upload my Christchurch Pilfered Tudor Room image!
Maybe we may wish to think on how we value art (the ‘pricelessness’ of paintings, and how such work is objectified and given a fiscal worth, and thus a status…by those who aren’t artistic) as well as our privacy and sovereignty – this policy is onesided and makes us the weaker party, for we’re not expected to look in staff’s bags! Thus it is unlawful.
I’ve noted that bag searches are in the terms of cinemas – it’s in Ipswich’s arts cinema’s; entrance to festivals (Norwich’s beer, on police and insurance advice), as well as some pubs – the Swan opposite the Corn Exchange has this on a sign. My companions and I eschewed it on principle.
So that is some social justice I wish to speak to, for it means that we allow others to have power over us in the name of security, like it was in Northern Ireland before the Good Friday agreement; people were socialised into submitting to bag searches as a condition of entry, treating everyone with suspicion, and behaving with resignation, even acceptance of this being normative. No!!
The other part of injustice in the name of security which I have noted in Ipswich is the camera. There was a poster campaign about not filming people without their consent, especially to make public and used to intimidate them later. Next to these were CCTV signs! Which is exactly used for that purpose. And in that same street, B&M had signs about facial recognition as you enter the store, which I no longer do. These cameras are running the faces of all they capture against police records, and often falsely accuse – innocent people have been accosted. It also means that having a police record may stop you entering shops. Not all such records are just, and we have the right to eat and be!
There have been heavy criticisms and campaigns against this, rightly!
When I so often hear people speak, including myself, of this New World coming, I am aware of these as examples of its opposite. Like the viral era of this decade, it is about control and compliance to be allowed to do basic things. Safety is always the excuse, not the reason.
This is something to speak out against and resist, not to accept.

Holy Trinity Fore Hamlet’s welcoming signs. This is apparently now closed for C of E worship. Hm
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I’m also questioning the acquisitive nature of museums. I had accepted that this and others collected things from elsewhere, but I sympathise with the strong feelings against the British Museum having Ancient World treasures such as the Elgin Marbles, and I am angry when the US has ours. A prominent architect in Ipswich pioneered this latter practice! Reading more deeply about the collections in Christchurch Mansion, I realised that it has accrued from several of Ipswich’s many special contemporary buildings, some of which survive. Why did it get the Hawstead painted panels from Hardwick House near Bury St Edmunds, or those in the Red House in Sproughton? Why has it got the linenfold panelling from the Old Neptune, which is still standing, so a copy was made there in 1960? Why are other parts of that house in Glasgow’s Burrell collection? Why does the fireplace of Eldred the Navigator sit here in the wedding room and not in extant 97 Fore St, a most interesting road rich with historic houses? Why did they build a special but easy to miss room in the 1930s for part of the Great Parlour of Wingfield’s Mansion? This little room by the gallery that currently holds Constable’s bucolic work is not a great parlour. Wingfield’s house on Tacket St was an interesting part of social history, for the home of this leading Tudor – is he less worthy than Wolsey? I’d not heard of him – became Ipswich’s first theatre, a tavern, and then a Salvation Army citadel. An early Nonconformist chapel stood nearby (rebuilt in a new style 1858). The area had other eminent homes, of Christopher Hatton (who I think of Elizabethan Wayne Sleep), Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk; and that of Wolsey’s henchman, Rush, which was destroyed to make Sainsbury’s and defunct C&A stores, whilst others were sacrificed for cars – showrooms and parks – to be accrued and sacrificed in turn.
I note the dominance of a few firms, in both senses, and again, not just in Ipswich. Might we feel that we can’t comment negatively? Why should business people run towns? I question the values of charity, as I did in July. A tour of Ipswich usually includes – it is implied should include – the almshouses and just houses of certain benefactors, oh and their tombs! Note that their names do not appear here. But I’ll say that beneficiaries received dole money on a tomb of their donor!! I’m noting too the addresses and wide ownership of certain abolitionists – the former involving a large Hall.
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This is pretty much it to Blackfriars, hemmed in between a brewery, carpark, and flats with ‘No Loitering’ signs by bins
I’ve long maintained that places seem to have a collective, lasting atmosphere over time. Ipswich seems to be impatient with pulling down, and in living memory, some significant sites (in size and stature) have become roads and shopping malls and wharfs. And offices and flats – the new favourites.
Ipswich is quick to tell you that it had 5 friaries – an average number nationally, I’ve been counting – but it is odd that there are scant remains of but one – Blackfriars. And that flats were built over it in living memory. Worse is that the flats have ‘no loitering’ signs – is that just for the residents, or in the actual ruins, which as a sacred space are a natural place to loiter, but there are no benches and little space. I question if this housing firm can lawfully hope to affect our being stationary – it is term used by fearful regimes to stop people gathering, and says more to me about the housing company than the residents. Two malls and an over-rated insurance office cover two others. Blackfriars was used as the grammar school, and in the last couple of decades, a C19 picture by celebrated John Sell Cotman was found depicting the 100ft long hammerbeam roofed hall, before the occupants were turfed out for demolition! Ipswich had two ancient overlapping schools: one continues, and the other lasted 2 years. The latter is well known because of its locally born founder.
Thomas Wolsey is the elephant not going to get far into this room today, but he is much vaunted here – I believe unjustly. With my interest in Anne Boleyn, I know him quite well and he too represents old values – he is the American dream, the Conservative poster boy of one from modest beginnings who made it as big as you can get in this country, and he had his eye on the ultimate churchman’s seat. Wolsey was the lesser of the two English archbishops, but he was resident in France during the tenure!
He acquired this at 41, cardinal and lord chancellor (no capitals) at 42 – quite young too by their standards. He asked people to give up homes he fancied, and expected a yes, as Henry did to him – Whitehall Palace was York Place, the northern archies’ London base, until the rotund Tudor asked for it, and he also acquired Wolsey’s country residence which was called by a contemporary poet ‘pre-eminent’ over royal palaces, so Henry made it one of his 60. Picture this Hampton Court as it may help you imagine what Wolsey’s college looked like. HCP features heads of Caesars to show off one’s power, and according to Jonathan Foyle, its design is taken from an Italian book on how to be a cardinal.
It seems that Christian values are not part of this manual.
Wolsey shoved off the monks – this was pre Dissolution – and the parishioners of St Peter’s for his choristers, fellows, and pupils. He sold off the chancel roof to next door so he could make a bigger one. He intended that his scholars would continue their education at the Oxford college he was making – ‘Cardinal’, ie referencing his position. He took a priory down for that as well. But both colleges were wrested from him. It literally rained on his inaugural parade, which was Mary’s birthday – for the Ipswich college was dedicated to her – and so they only processed round the grounds that September day, not the town. In two years, Wolsey fell from grace and died, and the unfinished college was closed and swiftly dismantled. We seem not to have any drawing of it – it was gone before John Speed’s map of 1610. In 2023, the estimated 550th anniversary of Wolsey’s birth*, leaflets and displays gave away that the footprint of the college is merely conjectured. (*They had favoured 1470-1, but the 550th for that would have fallen during covid). They don’t know where its main entrance was, and can’t draw a plan of it. Wolsey may’ve risen high in 20 years, but he fell in just 2.
Wolsey had eyed a large home in his home town for him to retire to, so he asked Lord Curson for his titular House, right by the college. I wonder if this means that Wolsey intended to not only preside over but expand his college. We don’t have Curson House, which is depicted by Speed, but we do have its Lodge, sitting on the corner of what was thought to be Wolsey’s birthplace, and now his £90,000 statue that I think looks like Jabba the Hut crossed with Dublin’s Floozy in the Jacuzzi. Much is named for Wolsey here – theatre, gallery wing, apartment block, entertainment park, pub… but is becoming the king’s right hand man and de facto running the country, or being ambitious and avaricious and acquisitive but showing little sign of having much of a genuine faith, despite being a senior church official, something to celebrate?
Ipswich plaques bear reference to the many others that this town has produced – Margaret Catchpole I’m sure is worth a sermon, but there was an early aviatrix, archaeologist (she first dug Blackfriars), and ‘rebel leader’ John Harbottle – that makes a change from ‘merchant and mayor/MP’. He was connected to the Suffolk wing of Kett’s would-be revolution that we thought of four years ago.
I’m not pleased at the Ipswich Society’s downplaying comments regarding their plaque. I am also seeing that their logo is an eye, rather reminiscent of the all-seeing one one dollar bills.
I may miss Wolsey’s college architecturally (I am not sure about educationally) but in one sense I am not sorry that it is gone, for it demonstrates the pride fall/bigger barn parable.
OK, the elephant did get in.

This is the site of Wolsey’s college – it’s looked like this for 30 years, with busy roads righ round it and a skyscraper
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Carr St – not how the council puts posters in windows to hide empty shops, possibly of rates it raised too high. The upper floors of the candlesnuffer Co-op store building (right) are all flats now
I’m seeing an alarming trend demonstrated here that is more universal – that public buildings are being turned into flats or offices, and that these are too expensive and bland. I note the perception that Ipswich Borough Council is especially bad for making these decisions. I think this is historical, for it would explain the high losses of important structures. Even Christchurch Mansion was sold in the 1890s for demolition! This beloved museum (which I feel is blighted by its new policy) was rescued for the people, and its buyer and presenter is now considered a plaque-worthy local hero.
This MP and JP’s family brewery languishes; we are to look to new buildings on the quay instead.

old Tolly Cobbold brewery
When a pub closes, it means a community meeting place is gone – a place to build relationships, share ideas, joys, woes, make connections, and have a change of scene. When a church closes, such as Turret Green Baptist, or the Back Hamlet Congregational, a place of spiritual gathering is lost, as is the energy of seeking God together. The conversion takes away from that building being easily used again for a public purpose. I began to note how many older buildings in Ipswich are known as ‘the old…’: Wheatsheaf, Running Buck, Coach and Horses, Pack Horse, Neptune, Saracen…
Only one of those is now anything like a pub – it’s a cafe owned by a church. Maltings that were a nightclub…big sheds and stores…the former Co-op on Carr St with its candlesnuffer roof…all turned into luxury flats. Where are the luxury flat and office dwellers in this town? Are you trying to draw in, or pushing out? And why make everyone pay silly prices and unending debts to live in identikit homes, often too small? These say: there’s nothing of you in here, and you may not be able to make any mark of your own. You stare out onto generic walls and furnishings of another’s choice – I viewed enough properties in my research to see a distinct trend, and that estate agents use ‘character’ inappropriately. The sales pitches made me snort.
I am concerned by the council giving its permission to this – for example, a listed and rare C16 timbered warehouse at 57 Fore St with a long open upper storey can be turned into flats… they must be thinking of the permanent revenue this elicits. I tell them: think again! The New Kingdom doesn’t allow for commodifying basic needs, always being owned and controlled by another – what thinking is behind these ‘commercial decisions’?! One that needs to alter.
I’ve heard it remarked that the town centre of Ipswich is dying, that so many shops are empty, and indeed, an unusual amount of property is for sale or rent. Yet to draw people to take on those debts, estate agents tell you that there is much here, such as those looking to buy a grade 1 listed town house (notably offered for less here than other towns). It seems a very mixed message to me – that many big shops are being shut (and leased to the same few companies)… that I heard police had told pensioners not to bank here, thus scaring off older people – but which generation is most likely to bank in person? And so that remark, as well as fearmongering, helps the trend of closing banks and doing everything remotely. I noted too that Ipswich can have a friendly convivial atmosphere – it has been remarked upon, and that it is multicultural; yet I’ve heard people say they felt afraid here, but not in bigger towns; and comment on the one negative person or group they’ve met all day and not all the kind people or just neutral ones they’ve encountered.
I have more to say about Ipswich in another post and place, but I want to draw together some thoughts:
-bullying in the name of security
-odd choices about who we celebrate
-the choices about which buildings live, and making meeting, especially for worship, harder
-overpricing basic human needs and making them a form of control
-accountable councils who listen, and don’t think of money, kudos and the short term
And that the people choose our government, at all levels – they do not choose the people.
Cherish those of the area you have the privilege to serve!
And then the places we have relationships with, and what makes us feel at home, how we can be influenced by others – note how the thought of the government office or daily grind affected people’s opinion of Ipswich in my circle, and finding those that celebrate it and found it worth moving some distance for, and have stayed a long time.
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Upper Orwell St – the tower of St Michael’s is on scaffoling on the right – note the silver at the top of the street…
The new kingdom
I’d like to end with an image which may sum up Ipswich. It may seem to begin with to be a motif for the negative. Along a scruffy street – the one I apologised for taking my friend down – with a sex shop and views to the back of an abandoned department store and a carpark, you are heralded by a burned out church. It was built in the late C19th century, an Anglican for the widening population, although it may be about winning the souls of the slum dwellers for the church of England, before those nearby Catholics and Nonconformists got to them. It has posters and graffiti on it…I had walked on the other side of the road, if I must pass down Upper Orwell St at all…but recently, I read them. Firstly, the words of the MP, Jo Cox, who was murdered in 2016, are quoted, very much like the log line of one of my favourite films, Agora: “We have far more in common than that which divides us”. It is said that Jo was killed by a person of ‘extremist’ opposing political views. She campaigned for refugees and immigrants. Ipswich participated in nationwide commemorative activities after her death. It too is a town of many immigrants.
Photos of inside were at first alarming; and as I checked some facts, I found a less simple picture emerge, that isn’t so easy to round up on. I am not sure of all that Yorkshire MP Jo stood for, of the truth and motive behind her fatal attack, and what really went on with St Michael’s. It closed in the 1990s and was already derelict when it burned during the night of 7th March 2011. It is said – and I’m loathed to repeat it without proof – that is was arson, and that a Muslim group were planning to move in is not unconnected. I give to God the truth of that. The Muslims did not move in, but now the Ark church uses the hall which survives at the rear. I do not know this church well, came across it by seeming chance. I can tell that they are as Evangelical as they are sincere and committed; I also note that such churches are often not supported by council or press, nor even other kinds of church.
The positive end I had aimed for was that Jo’s quote was chosen for that husk; that a church continues to worship regularly on that site, and that the name of ‘Ark’ is about a safe vessel in difficult times. I agree with them about casting all onto God: that which separates us from him, from true connection and fulfilment (they may use a word here that I would not). I agree that powers of darkness are real – this oddly unites the more traditional Christian with the broadly New Age. But that these are defeated by ultimate Love, a force on our side who wants to know us.

The photos of the charred interior of St Michael’s are not easy to view at first – they seemed filled with ugly violence, a record of trauma that perhaps some of us have encountered. But I looked some more, and I saw that nature had triumphed over the destructive misused element, that it brought life back like Easter. The scene recalled the glass and plant dominated leisure and shopping facilities of the 1980s prevalent here that were my first architectural interests. I no longer wished for a new roof – only a canopy of glass. There is literally an openness, a lack of hierarchy and starchiness in this al fresco nave. I recall the beautiful sentiments from Coventry cathedral after it was bombed, and how it set up an international Community of the Cross of Nails – and extended it to Dresden, the city that we had bombed. I see that spirit here in Ipswich.
Walking up this street, one is greeted not only by the defiant little bell holder of St Michael – that archangel (I prefer those to an archbishop) who is known as a protector who successfully battles evil. And above the charredness, something taller and shining – like an angel – catches one’s eye and the sun and leads us up and forward. On the site of another landmark which sat empty for 20 years are four simple letters, the name of another living and active church…but better yet is its message.
In the font of the cinema chain who built it is written: “Hope”.

I will end in prayer, including those especially who have suffered fire, and for Ipswich:
IPSWICH, YOU ARE LOVED – and so are you, wherever you are
Blessings and good night. We meet next time on 27th Sept…alien time? Or another place? Or a voyage?

I end with one of Ipswich’s nicest spots – Northgate St, with the library and Bethesda Baptist and mediaeval buildings















